These are all great ideas.=C2=A0 I wonder if first spraying silicone on the barb would ease in the insertion and removal of the tubing.=C2=A0 And if all else fails throw the unit away.=C2=A0 The potential for injury is not worth it.
I like Rob=E2=80=99s approach best =E2=80=93 design out the problem.
If you=E2=80=99re stuck with hose over glass barbs, the best I know is cutting off the hose. Five points follow:
(1) Clamp glassware down (think: woodworking vice, padded to allow firm hold without scoring glass),
(2) Cut carefully with utility knife, razor, etc. (think: controlled application of pressure)
(3) A little heat may soften the hose and loosen the hose-glass bonding.
(4) Kevlar (read: cut resistant) gloves.
(5) Glassware does not last forever =E2=80=93 watch for cracks, junk it (or repair via glassblower) if it doesn=E2=80=99t pass the test, especially if the "hose removal process=" stresses the glass too much.
This one is a goodie! After a "few" years and a boo-boo or two, here is what I do for tubing insertion onto (and removal from) glass barbs:
Tygon tubing: insertion onto glass is done by wearing cloth gloves (not nitrile). A small application of hexane to the tubing itself will soften (but not degrade) the tubing to allow a easy, quick insertion. The tubing will form a nice fit on the barbs. Removal is done (wearing the above gloves) carefully by (unfortunately) making a vertical notch along the tubing with a razor (or a scissor blade). Place the glassware on a firm surface (not in your hands) when doing this.
This will take time and practice, but once this is done no problems should occur. But always anticipate the glass will break. With gloves, it is better to have the glass break than your fingers getting sliced.
PTFE tubing: insertion onto glass is done by wearing cloth gloves (not nitrile). Here I pass the tubing over a heat gun, which warms the tubing enough to glide over the barb. Removal can be accomplished in the smae (and careful) manner as described above.
Final note: Upon placing the tubing onto your barbs, please use a hose clamp to secure them. I would suggest to NOT use simple copper wire in a trash-bag tying form as this will break down over time.
It would be nice if I could upload a video of these procedures to a shared server....Seeing it is better than writing it down.
Hope this helps!
George D. McCallion
Chemical Process Research & Development
Johnson Matthey Pharmaceutical Materials
2003 Nolte Drive
West Deptford, NJ 08066-1742
List [mailto:DCHAS-L**At_Symbol_Here**LIST.UVM.EDU] On Behalf Of ILPI
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: [DCHAS-L] Tool selection for removing hoses from glassware
The better solution is condensers that have removable hose connectors. See, for example, http://www.safety emporium.com/?CG-1213-A-HC-01 or look on http://www.safetyemporium.com/ILPI_Site/WebPagesUS/lab/condenser.htm for additional styles.
Disclaimer: I'm the owner of Safety Emporium.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly B. Jeskie" <jeskiekb**At_Symbol_Here**ORNL.GOV>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 12:16:30 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [DCHAS-L] Tool selection for removing hoses from glassware
We=E2=80=99ve been looking hard at our hand injuries lately and are focusing on cutting tool and glove selection. One thing in particular that we haven=E2=80=99t been able to come up with a good solution for is a tool that works well for removing tubing that has basically seized or "become one with=" the glass connections on condensers, cold fingers, etc. I=E2=80=99m sure you=E2=80=99ve seen this before and most people reach for their pocket knife or a razor blade. It generally ends badly. Either the blade slips or the glass breaks and in either situation we end up with stitches. Anyone found a tool that works better under these conditions?
Kimberly Begley Jeskie, MPH-OSHM
Physical Sciences Directorate
Oak Ridge National Laboratory
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