At the very least this will make that mouse's life miserable. https://www.
tanglefoot.com/products/My dad used this stuff to keep the gypsy moth caterpillars off our oak trees and it works really well. Even if she doesn't get caught in it, she will stick to everything and everything to her. Teach her a good lesson at the very least. insect-control/tree- tanglefoot-insect-barrierJust don't touch it yourself once it's installed. Very sticky. One day the family cat went up one of those trees.. You've never seen a more pathetic looking sticky ball of fur. It took many hours to get it off the cat using Dawn and patient manual scrubbing.Rob Toreki============================= =========================Safety Emporium - Lab & Safety Supplies featuring brand namesFax: (856) 553-6154, PO Box 1003, Blackwood, NJ 08012
On May 18, 2018, at 8:28 AM, Monona Rossol <0000030664c37427-dmarc-
request**At_Symbol_Here**LISTS.PRINCETON.EDU> wrote:I wonder if they sell sticky traps in 8 foot lengths? I could block all the window access.
Monona Rossol, M.S., M.F.A., Industrial HygienistPresident: Arts, Crafts & Theater Safety, Inc.Safety Officer: Local USA829, IATSE
The last mouse I got was with a glue trap. The little guy/gal was in the habit of climbing into my kitchen drawers near the sink. I put a glue trap in one of them, near the front of the drawer & left it there for several days. The little vermin got used to it & easily avoided it. Then I moved it to the back of the drawer & placed it such that it was in the path of easiest access for the little rodent. Bingo! I checked it the next morning, and the little fur ball was hopelessly stuck. I got a gallon size storage bag & deposited glue trap & victim in it, sealed it, then deposited it into the the trash. Mission accomplished!
Have you tried a glue trap? Here's a short story. When my kids were young we caught a mouse in the garage on a glue trap, the only problem was what to do with it until my husband came home. I am deathly afraid of rodents. I decided I could hit it on the head with a shovel. So I get the shovel and of course miss. I then proceeded to slam the floor many times until it was flat. I look up to see the entire neighborhood of kids watching. The story spread like fire " mrs koza killed a rat in her garage and she hit it many times".
Hoping you are successful!
On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 7:46 AM Monona Rossol <0000030664c37427-dmarc-
Barbara, In 50 years of living in a rodent-infested building that has twice gone into bankruptcy, once during which I had to get a booklet to learn how to run a #6 oil-burning boiler in order to keep heat and hot water coming despite the hoard of basement-dwelling Norway rats I needed to disperse every day to get to it, I can assure you I am familiar with the odor of dead rodents of every size.
And this experience helps me in my job for the film industry since abandoned buildings are a favorite area shooting movies. They want our workers to work in locations full of rodents, pigeon poop, lead paint, asbestos and other goodies. So my experience enables me to positively identify which of the three varieties of rodents here in the City, mice, Norway rats, or roof rats, are in the venue by looking at their poo.
But this is the first time in 50 years that a rodent has resisted all my rather experienced attempts to do it in. If this is a clue to future interaction between mice and humans in the City, we are in for a serious problem.
Our apartment has a floor-through configuration, so an open window at one end and an exhaust fan at the other keeps the air moving so fast it is hardly noticeable. I think the odor is more of a problem for people who live in homes that are insulated and have recirculating ventilation systems. Open windows and energy inefficiency is a much healthier way to live.
Thanks for worrying about me. It's a nice feeling.
I hope for your sake the mouse does not expire inside the walls. The odor could last for several weeks.You may need to book a long vacation while the smell abates. Your apartment decon of all the droppings and poisons sounds like it will take some time.
What's next- armored window screens or a pet boa constrictor??
That was my concern. I saw our adversary when I was practicing last night. And she eats so much D-Con and Just-One-Bite that she leaves little bright green poopies around. I think she'd give a cat some major indigestion.
But last night I also didn't put out any D-Con and mixed the Just-One-Bite and the Tom Cat shavings. This morning it looks she's eaten quite a bit of the Tom Cat. I've pulled out an old aria from an obscure Handel oratorio called Ester that I hope to practice soon: It's Esther's Alleluia.
Monona Rossol, M.S., M.F.A., Industrial HygienistPresident: Arts, Crafts & Theater Safety, Inc.Safety Officer: Local USA829, IATSE
One note of caution about using a cat to deal with the mouse. This mouse may have ingested and be loaded up with warfarin and/or coumadin. If the cat kills and eats the rodent, the cat can become very sick and even die from it. This happened to a neighbor's cat, caught a rat that had eaten the bait and the cat became the $1000 cat when it became so sick.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 10:13 AM, Meg Osterby <megosterby**At_Symbol_Here**gmail.com> wrote:
Monona,Being from Wisconsin, as you are, you must know that releasing a mouse you live trapped would have two potential problems. First, if you don't take it several miles, or tens of miles, from where it was trapped, it will simply find its way back to where its "home" has been. Second, do you really want this multiply resistant animal out there in the environment to reproduce and pass her resistance to offspring who aren't immediately killed. So, if this live trapping scenario works, I'd suggest you put this critter down. (I'm well aware that some won't ever want to kill any animal, but since you've got traps out filled with poison baits, I doubt you'd have a problem destroying it on principle.)We often get mice and voles in the house in the fall, and one way we have caught several of them over the years is with an empty large coffee can, lying on its side, with some sort of food, apple would work, but we often use lunch meat, in the bottom. The critter runs in, and eats, and then you tip the can up. Once it has eaten in the can a couple of times, it's easy to bait it and sit and wait for it. It usually doesn't take long, and we've never had one be able to run up the inside of a large can. It's too slippery. So, we clap the lid on, take it outside, and terminate it using an object large enough to fit in the can and crush it instantly (like a log for the fireplace). I know it sounds nasty, but the critter dies quickly, and won't come back once it's dead. And, even though we end up sitting and waiting for it to take the bait, we've never had to wait more than half an hour, once the mouse has learned that it can get food in the can. For voles, the bait must be meat, like lunch meat, or cheese, or meat flavored dog or cat food. Voles don=E2=80™t eat plant materials, as they are carnivores. Some mice will prefer the same type of treat that the voles will go for, since mice are omnivores.However, many of our neighbors use a cat with success, and if you aren't allergic, and don't want a lifetime commitment to an animal in your home, you might be able to borrow one for a few days and nights from a friend who is a pet owner. You'll have to borrow one that hasn't been declawed though, or it won=E2=80™t be able to actually catch the mouse. And, the difficulty here, is that since your home invading mouse is full of poison, if the cat actually ate the mouse, you might end up having to explain to your friend how their pet died. Personally, knowing cat owners, I wouldn't want to risk killing a friend's pet.Good luck!!"It's better to be careful 100 times than to be killed once..." Mark TwainMeg Osterby
W831 County Road K
Stoddard, WI 54658
megosterby**At_Symbol_Here**gmail.comMonona,I suspect you would now miss the company of your four-legged friend, should you succeed in terminating it's existence..Providing you are prepared for the loss, I have a few suggestions.Based on the info provided, I suspect the mouse has learned to avoid recognized traps. It likely won't matter what bait is used, the bait won't overcome the trap avoidance.Nice don't free-drink water. They obtain water from the food they eat. Based on what it prefers to eat, I suspect the mouse is craving water.I'd be willing to bet a fresh apple slice would provide a scent and the moisture to be an effective attractant. But not for a trap the mouse knows to avoid.I recommend that you borrow or obtain a small live trap. The trap needs to be small to ensure the mouse can't escape the trap. Because they can compress their collar bones, mice can pass through an opening the size of a dime.While you're obtaining the trap, try and unfettered apple slice to see if the mouse takes it.Once you have a successful bait identified and a trap unfamiliar to the mouse, you need to train the mouse to the trap. If it becomes scared of the trap without being caught, you're back to square one.Put the successful bait near the new trap, but not in it. Next, fix the trap in a set position, but rigged so it doesn=E2=80™t trip. Put the successful bait inside until the mouse is accustomed to taking bait from the trap. Then set and bait the trap to catch the mouse.If it's a live trap, I suggest you offer your survivor friend a second chance outdoors. But, if you want to put it down, you can do so with dry ice and a plastic bag.Good luck!DanDan BlunkFormerlyEnv ProgsUCSC
On May 14, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Monona Rossol <0000030664c37427-dmarc-
request**At_Symbol_Here**LISTS.PRINCETON.EDU> wrote:Veh es mir. Still nothing except the information that jam won't do it. But tomorrow night will be the BIG test. I've made a list of all the ideas for attracting the mice to the many traps and every idea will be represented. Some traps will have multiple types of attractants. We better not have to get up in the night or we are likely to lose toes.Monona Rossol, M.S., M.F.A., Industrial HygienistPresident: Arts, Crafts & Theater Safety, Inc.Safety Officer: Local USA829, IATSE
From: Mark Ellison <Mark**At_Symbol_Here**TANKTRAILERCLEANING.COM>
To: DCHAS-L <DCHAS-L**At_Symbol_Here**PRINCETON.EDU>
Sent: Mon, May 14, 2018 9:31 am
Subject: Re: [DCHAS-L] mouse bait anyone?I certainly hope, for the sake of New York, (indeed, the rest of the world!) that this super mouse does not pass on her insane biochemistry to her progeny. Oy ve!Mark EllisonThanks, but I own two types of those bucket spinners and this mouse isn't at all interested. I could try the jam. Haven't use that. And using peanut butter is a guarantee that the mouse won't go near the thing.Monona Rossol, M.S., M.F.A., Industrial HygienistPresident: Arts, Crafts & Theater Safety, Inc.Safety Officer: Local USA829, IATSE
Google bucket mouse traps. Peanut butter and oatmeal are my staple for regular traps. For the bucket trap you could try jam or honey on the bucket roller.Good luck JeffNo experience with it, but I saw this the other day while I was at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.
com/p/Tomcat-Mouse-Attractant- Gel-BL33901/205566250Reviews are mixed, but contain lots of advice about different kinds of cheeses- Also read the reviews from other sites.Hey, it even has an SDS (which says it is not hazardous-which means it does not need an SDS-but they filled out all the info anyway just because).Rob Toreki============================= =========================Safety Emporium - Lab & Safety Supplies featuring brand namesFax: (856) 553-6154, PO Box 1003, Blackwood, NJ 08012From: Monona Rossol <actsnyc**At_Symbol_Here**cs.com>
Re; mouse bait anyone?
please post new cry for help
I love my apartment. I've lived here since 1969. Every fall, for almost 50 years, a few mice come in, we poison and trap them, and in less than a week we are back to normal. I moved to NYC from living in my farm house/studio in Wisconsin where the procedure was, and still is, the same. The mice come in when its fall, you do them all in, and settle down for the winter.
Well, that's not what happened last year. We killed a few, but not one particular mouse.
We are in a six-floor walk-up and this is one of the mice that run on the moldings on the outside of NYC buildings and come in over the sills of open windows (I see them come in each year). The mouse is still here this spring because it lives on D-Con (eats a ~1/4 cube per day), Just-One-Bite (eats about a teaspoon full per night off those big yellow poison bars), the roots of my plants, and a couple of bird seeds that I miss when I clean up the feeder every night. Our apartment is festooned with bait traps, snap traps, electronic traps, and sticky traps.
I even tried a few home made concoctions. But the mouse associates peanut butter and cheese with snap traps, and won't go near any concoctions. She prefers the commercial poisons. Sometimes she eats so much poison that her little poopies are bright D-Con green.
I KNOW it's a SHE because, in these miserable 8 months, she has TWICE raised a litter to the point that they can leave where ever she is nesting. The wee mice tear up the whole house for a day and all die from the poisons or in the traps. If one of her offspring inherits both the poison immunity and her smarts, we are going to be in BIG trouble.
The building's regular licensed exterminator only offers snap traps and D-Con. And I can't do integrated pest management in a 150 year old tenement whose walls and floors leak like sieves. Without open windows we'd have no fresh air. Some of my plants have lived with us 30 years and I'm not getting rid of them (although I forgot to move one of the plants into the bathtub last night and she ate so much of the roots it will probably die). And I clean up the bird seed from the feeder every night but I'm not giving up birds.
I'm just not giving up 50-year, happy, fulfilling life style for one damn mouse. Instead: I NEED SOMETHING THAT WORKS. I am willing to entertain just about any ideas.
Monona Rossol, M.S., M.F.A., Industrial Hygienist
President: Arts, Crafts & Theater Safety, Inc.
Safety Officer: Local USA829, IATSE
181 Thompson St., #23
New York, NY 10012 212-777-0062
For more information about the DCHAS-L e-mail list, contact the Divisional membership chair at membership**At_Symbol_Here**dchas.org
Follow us on Twitter **At_Symbol_Here**acsdchas--Jeff LewinChemical Safety OfficerCompliance, Integrity, and SafetyEnvironmental Health and SafetyMichigan Technological UniversityHoughton, MI 49931O 906-487.3153--- For more information about the DCHAS-L e-mail list, contact the Divisional membership chair at membership**At_Symbol_Here**dchas.org Follow us on Twitter **At_Symbol_Here**acsdchas
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